Range and Stove Repair

A range is two appliances sharing one cabinet and one control system: a cooktop on top and an oven underneath. That is why it generates more calls than either half would alone, and why the repair decision is different from a wall oven or a built-in cooktop. This page is about the whole appliance. If your fault is only in the oven cavity, the oven repair page goes deeper, and for a separate built-in hob see cooktop repair. The diagnostic is $99 and is waived when you approve the repair, every job carries a 90-day parts-and-labour warranty, and we work ten metro areas. Florida and general (863) 474-2970, Texas (281) 205-1474, Georgia (470) 412-9335.

Which range do you actually have?

Three installation types exist and they are not interchangeable, which matters the moment replacement is on the table.

Freestanding is the common one. It has finished sides and a backguard carrying the controls, it slides into a gap between cabinets, and it can stand alone. It is the easiest to swap.

Slide-in has unfinished sides, controls on the front rather than a backguard, and a lip that overlaps the countertop on each side for a built-in look. A slide-in cannot simply be replaced with a freestanding unit without leaving the countertop cut edges exposed, and the overlap dimension varies between manufacturers.

Drop-in sits in a cabinet cut-out with no drawer beneath and is the most constrained of the three, because the opening was built to that model.

Then there is fuel: all-electric, all-gas, or dual-fuel, which pairs gas burners with an electric oven and is the arrangement many cooks prefer. Dual-fuel matters in service because it needs both a gas supply and a 240-volt circuit, so a household moving from all-gas to dual-fuel usually needs an electrician as well as a delivery.

The anti-tip bracket

This is the item we most often find missing, and it is a safety device rather than a convenience.

A range is heavy at the front when the oven door is open, and heavier still with a loaded rack pulled out. Every range is supplied with a bracket that screws to the floor or the wall and captures a rear leg, so the appliance cannot tip forward if someone leans or stands on the open door. Manufacturers require it and it exists because ranges have tipped onto children.

It goes missing during moves and kitchen work. The range is pulled out to paint, to lay flooring, or to clean behind, and it does not get slid back onto the bracket, or a new floor raises the level so the leg no longer engages. Nobody notices, because nothing about the appliance changes.

Check it: with the range in place, open the oven door and press gently downward at its outer edge. If the appliance rocks or lifts at the back, the bracket is not engaged. It is an inexpensive part, and we fit one on any range we work on that does not have it.

Gas ranges: the igniter, and the propane question

On a gas oven the most common single failure by a wide margin is the igniter, and it fails in a way that misleads people. In most gas ovens the igniter does two jobs: it gets hot enough to light the gas, and it draws enough current through the safety valve to open it. As it ages it keeps glowing, sometimes brightly, while its resistance rises and the current falls below what the valve needs. The valve never opens, and you get a glowing igniter and no flame. A glowing igniter proves nothing; the test is a current measurement.

Timing is the other tell. A healthy igniter lights the burner within roughly thirty to ninety seconds. If yours has gone from lighting quickly to taking three or four minutes, it is on the way out and will strand you.

On the cooktop, clicking without lighting is usually a wet or misaligned burner cap or a blocked port beside the electrode. Both are free to correct: dry and seat the cap squarely, and clear a blocked port with a straightened paper clip rather than a wooden toothpick, which can break off inside.

Where there are no gas mains, a range runs on propane, and that produces a category of fault you do not see in town. Propane carries more energy per cubic foot and runs at a different pressure, so a range built for natural gas needs a conversion kit: smaller orifices and a regulator change. A range moved in from a natural-gas address without that conversion burns with tall lazy yellow flames, soots pans, runs hot or cycles oddly, and sometimes will not stay lit. People spend real money chasing that with igniters and valves when the answer is a set of orifices. Tell us at booking if the range came from somewhere else.

Electric ranges: the 240-volt trap

An electric range runs on 240 volts delivered as two 120-volt legs. The clock, lights and electronics run on one leg; the heating elements need both. That single fact explains the symptom that confuses people most: the panel is lit and the clock is right, and nothing heats.

Before assuming elements have failed, switch the double breaker fully off and firmly back on, because losing one leg leaves exactly that picture. If that does not restore it, the terminal block behind the range is the next place connections loosen and char, and on wiring that has been heat cycling for decades a scorched block is a repair in its own right.

A bake element dead while broil still works is a straightforward element failure, often visibly blistered or broken, and it is one of the more satisfying repairs because the appliance goes from useless to normal in under an hour. Long preheats and weak browning with everything nominally working point instead at a partially failed element, a drifting sensor, or a relay on the board no longer switching cleanly.

Self-clean: the cycle that breaks working ranges

More ranges arrive at us dead the day after a self-clean than for any other single reason. A pyrolytic cycle locks the door and drives the cavity to roughly 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit for several hours, far above any cooking temperature the appliance normally sees, and that heat soaks outward into the thermal fuse, the door lock motor, the wiring behind the rear panel and the control board.

A young range usually survives it. An older one is a genuine gamble, and the classic outcome is an appliance that finishes the cycle, cools, and is then completely dead or sitting with a locked door and a dark panel. A door that will not unlock afterwards is the same story, and forcing it does real damage.

What we suggest, and what most technicians do at home: clean the cavity by hand with a paste of baking soda and water left overnight, and keep the cycle for rare occasions if at all. If you do run it, do it when you are home, not in the week before you need the oven, and take the racks out unless the manual says they are rated for it.

Temperature that is simply wrong

This is the complaint people live with for years and it is usually fixable in one visit. Measure first: an oven thermometer on the middle rack, set to 350 and given twenty minutes to stabilise, tells you what the cavity is doing. Displays report a setpoint or a sensor value, not the truth, and a drift of twenty-five degrees or more is common on an older appliance.

A consistent fixed error can usually be corrected with the calibration offset in the settings menu, which is free. Wild swings above and below point at the temperature sensor, an inexpensive part that drifts with age. Heat escaping at one edge, with one side burning while the rest underbakes, points at the door gasket or the hinges rather than the electronics. And on a convection model, a fan that has stopped turning produces the uneven-baking complaint while everything else appears normal.

What the common repairs cost

These are the ranges already published on our nine metro oven pages, for parts and labour, each carried by at least seven of them. A range shares its oven components with a wall oven, which is why the same figures apply.

Igniters, safety valves, door gaskets, hinges, thermal fuses and surface switches sit below those figures. Professional-style ranges run higher, and on those some parts are ordered rather than carried, in which case we give you the timescale with the quote rather than afterwards. The $99 diagnostic sits outside all of it and comes off when you approve the work.

Repair or replace

On a freestanding range the arithmetic is the ordinary one, because a replacement genuinely slides in. A control board on a range fifteen years or older is usually where replacement makes more sense: it is the most expensive component, availability for older models keeps worsening, and the swap is straightforward. The same goes for a second major failure inside a year.

On a slide-in or drop-in the line moves, because the replacement has to match the countertop overlap or the cabinet cut-out, and a mismatch turns an appliance purchase into cabinetry or countertop work. On those, repairs we might question on a freestanding unit are frequently worth doing.

Everything else is worth fixing. Igniters, elements, sensors, gaskets, hinges, switches, thermal fuses and valve assemblies are ordinary parts on appliances that routinely run fifteen to twenty years, and on professional-style ranges longer.

A gas range is the longest-lived appliance in a normal kitchen, at a published 15 to 17 years. The full picture is in how long ovens last.

On a dual-fuel range the deck and the cavity are separate systems, which changes the diagnosis: Wolf appliance repair.

An oven that broils but will not bake has not lost its gas — bake and broil have separate igniters: gas oven not heating.

Guide: gas stove burner not lighting, including the constant-clicking case and why it usually fixes itself.

If the cooktop works and the oven is dead, that narrows it usefully: oven not turning on.

A burner stuck on is the one cooktop fault to treat as urgent: electric stove burner not working.

Frequently asked questions